5 Tips for choosing the right pet carrier

5 Tips for Choosing the Right Pet Carrier This is a guest post on Andasmalldog.com from Mary-Alice Pomputius, who has two blogs. Dog Jaunt offers advice about traveling with a small dog and Pet Carrier Reviews offers unbiased reviews of carriers and crates for dogs, cats and other pets. AndASmall Dog loves reading Dog Jaunt – always something new and informative! Chloe ready for her next vacation Chloe ready for her next vacation I write about all aspects of traveling with a small dog (our dog, Chloe, is a young Cavalier King Charles Spaniel), but most of the questions I get are about taking a small dog on a plane. And most of those questions are about choosing a carrier. It’s a bewildering task: There are lots of choices, and there are lots of parameters to worry about. Nearly all of the U.S. airlines allow small dogs to travel in-cabin, and many international airlines do too, but there is no standard accepted maximum carrier size. Take a look at the “Guides” section on my blog, Dog Jaunt, and you’ll see that the maximums range from extremely small (Sun Country’s 8Hx16Lx11W) to the relatively palatial (THAI Air’s 12Hv22Lx15W). What’s a dog owner to do? Here are five tips: 1. Assess your dog The very first thing you need to do is measure your dog’s height. The crucial measurement is the distance from the floor to the top of your dog’s shoulders — not his head, his shoulders. Imagine that your dog has put his head down to drink water. His head and neck have bent low; the remaining body height is what you care about. That’s because your dog will spend nearly all of his time in his carrier lying down, either curled up or stretched out. He needs to be able to turn around freely in his carrier (that’s merciful, and it’s also an airline requirement), but he doesn’t need to raise his head completely to turn around or be comfortable. That number is the minimum height that your carrier needs to be. If you’re blessed with a mini Dachshund, for example, you’ll likely be able to purchase a carrier with extra vertical room. We, however, have a dog that is 12″ tall, and so is her carrier. Another crucial measurement is your dog’s weight. In general, a dog that weighs more than 15 lbs. is going to be too large to travel in-cabin. Some airlines have maximum weight requirements (look out, especially, for some very low international maximums), but the main problem is that a dog larger than 15 lbs. may not fit in a workable carrier and still be able to turn around freely. Chloe weighs 13 lbs., and she is at the upper limit of what works. 2. Buy a good-quality carrier If you plan to take only one plane trip with your dog (say, for example, you hate to travel, but you need to relocate from Houston to Seattle — please note that I’m choosing two cities not serviced by the pet airline Pet Airways, which will carry your dog in-cabin for you), ignore this advice. Buy an inexpensive but complying carrier, like the small Bergan Comfort Carrier (available on Amazon), and call it good. If you plan to travel frequently with your dog, however, don’t chintz on the carrier. Yes, a good carrier is expensive, but it will be sturdy and have features that contribute to your dog’s comfort and to your peace of mind. The features I look for include sturdy and big/numerous mesh ventilation panels, good-quality zippers, visual access to your dog from above (since your dog will spend most of your journey at your feet), patting access to your dog from above, at least one good-sized pocket, and minimal weight. A bonus feature is the ability to slip the bag over the extended handle of my own suitcase. The features that airlines require include mesh ventilation panels on at least two sides, water-repellant fabric, padding, the ability to completely contain your dog, and sufficient room for your dog to turn around. My choices? Chloe’s go-to carrier, the one she uses for her longest trips, is her large SturdiBag. My other favorite, and the one I use when I suspect that under-seat space is going to be tricky, is her Sleepypod Air carrier. If she weighed 10 lbs. or under, I would use her Creature Leisure Pet Pilot XL carrier (it’s a heavy carrier, though, so I wouldn’t use it if I was concerned about weight maximums). Please note that none of these carriers is a Sherpa bag, which is the original (and still most popular) soft-sided pet carrier. They have many good qualities, but their tops are solid, and I insist on being able to see Chloe from above, for both her comfort and mine. 3. Choose a carrier that flexes The simple fact is that most pet carriers you see in use at an airport are non-complying. Only the tiniest of dogs can fit in a carrier that is 8-9 inches tall. The bag you will see most often, a classic Sherpa bag in size Medium, is 10.5 inches tall. No ticketing agent or gate agent will turn a hair over a medium Sherpa bag, and there is, in practice, a bit of leeway afforded to traveling pet owners. Don’t take it to extremes (a large Sherpa bag is too large, as is an extra-large SturdiBag), because even if you can charm your way past an agent, you still have to fit your dog in an airplane’s under-seat space. Since that space is fairly shallow, your dog’s carrier needs to fit oriented left-to-right. A carrier that is 18 inches long works; 19 inches is iffy; 20 inches is too long. The three bags I like flex in important ways. The SturdiBag’s top and sides flex considerably, but its length is fixed at 18 inches. The Sleepypod Air can lose about an inch in height, but it is designed to (temporarily) lose up to 6 inches in length. The Creature Leisure Pet Pilot XL flexes in a different way: Zipped up, it just fits under most airplane seats, but as soon as you take off, you can pull it out from under the seat and unzip a large gusset that gives your dog a good deal of travel room during flight. That last point is an important one to remember. Your dog needs to fit under the seat in front of you for takeoff and landing, but during the rest of the flight you can pull his carrier out into the space under your knees. With that room, the top of the SturdiBag pops back out, the ends of the Sleepypod Air flip back down, and your dog has the maximum scope his carrier allows him. 4. Choose black Black bags look smaller. If you are the owner of a dog small enough to fit in a fully-complying carrier, buy one that’s neon orange. Live it up! The rest of us need to minimize the visual impact of our pet’s carrier. 5. Consider wheels If you are traveling far enough that you have a layover, you’ll want to make it a long one, so that you and your dog have the chance to exit the airport, find the pet relief area, and return through security. Some pet relief areas are conveniently located and easy to find, but many are not — and sometimes the gate you arrive at is a remote one. You’ll need to hurry to achieve your goals, and wheels help. Chloe’s a small dog, but by the time I get to the pet relief area in Denver she effectively weighs about 57 lbs. Only one of my favorite carriers (the Pet Pilot XL) has wheels, and it’s really too small for Chloe. Wheeled carriers that comfortably fit a dog Chloe’s size are typically too big to work as in-cabin carriers, unfortunately, but owners of dogs under 10 lbs. should give wheels serious consideration. Thank you Mary-Alice for your wonderful and informative post! Please be sure to check out Dog Jaunt and Pet Carrier Reviews for more information. ShareThis

Preparation is key to traveling long distances with a cat. You can't simply stick the animal quickly in a pet carrier the way you might if you were driving across town. A skittish feline on a long car or airplane ride can make your travels more stressful during and after arrival. The ASPCA recommends sticking to your cat's routine while traveling — from feeding schedules to bathroom breaks or playtime. Sponsored Link Flights from LOS to LON Seat selection, 2x hand luggage + 23kg bag allowance all included www.britishairways.com Items you will need Health certificate and medical records Cat carrier Leash Toys Cat food and water Food and water bowls Catnip Kitty litter Elimination bags Scooper Blanket Identification tag Photo of your animal Sedative (optional) Before You Go Step 1 Consult your vet about where you're going. Ask about diseases prevalent there, vaccination requirements (especially overseas), what weather is like and if any of these things will affect your cat. An airline will require a health certificate for the cat, issued within 10 days of departure; a car trip requires a certificate from within 30 days. Step 2 Select a carrier that is well-ventilated and big enough for your cat to get up, move around in and stretch. Avoid letting the cat out of the cage, unless leashed, until you reach where you are going. Ensure any crate is USDA-approved for shipping if you fly. Step 3 Set the carrier out in your house a few days before you travel so your cat can get used to it. Let it explore the cage as it pleases. Take a few short car rides with your cat in the days before you leave if traveling by car. Step 4 Search towns along your route for emergency vet locations. Pack your cat's tags and medical and vaccination records. Some states require rabies records for all animals crossing state lines. You will also need these when boarding an airplane. Step 5 Plan for stops at hotels that welcome cats. Hotels that accept cats are less plentiful than those allowing dogs. Search hotel websites, call area pet shelters or visit animal-oriented associations to find cat-friendly locations. Ask about weight restrictions, deposits or fees, number of animals allowed and whether you can leave the cat alone in the room. Step 6 Fill a box with your cat's favorite toys and food, plastic food and water bowls or bowls that fold, catnip, kitty litter, elimination bags and a scooper. Pack water from your own tap bottled in milk jugs or smaller bottles to keep your cat's stomach from getting upset due to drinking unfamiliar water. Car Travel Step 1 Feed your cat about three to four hours before you leave. The food needs time to settle so your cat doesn't leave you a regurgitated gift on the road. Step 2 Surround your cat inside the carrier with a blanket that smells of home. A scent your animal recognizes provides comfort. Step 3 Secure the carrier in the car where it will not lurch forward or topple in a sudden stop. Place the carrier ideally where your cat can see you. Secure the carrier with a seatbelt, if possible. Step 4 Feed and provide water for your cat along the way at times it would normally eat. Allow a little playtime while you stop for your own break. Transition timing of routines slowly a few weeks before you leave to accommodate any time-zone changes. Step 5 Crack windows about an inch if you get out of the car for any length of time, but don't let the cat roam the vehicle. Beware of rolling down windows farther; cats are good at wiggling out of tight spaces. Don't leave the cat in a parked car for more than a couple of minutes, no matter the weather, the ASPCA cautions. Warm days can quickly heat up a car to dangerous temperatures, while cold causes hypothermia just as fast. Air Travel Step 1 Consult airlines for animal policies. Ask whether your cat can travel with you or if it must travel in the cargo area. (It's better for the cat to be near you.) Ask about limits on how many animals one person can bring, what kind of carrier you need, medical requirements and costs. Step 2 Buy a new identification tag for the cat that has your name, address, telephone number, the cat's microchip number (if it has one) and your destination printed on it. Step 3 Book a flight that requires the fewest stops. Transfers from one airplane to the next, or workers making noise while handling baggage can stress your animal even more. Plan layovers with weather in mind. A hot southern sun won't be the best environment for a cat in cargo hold during summer — the same goes for those areas with subzero temperatures in winter. Step 4 Write on the carrier in dark marker your name and destination address, along with "Live animal" and arrows pointing which way the carrier should sit to be upright. Do this especially if the carrier is going in cargo hold. The CatWellness News website and ASPCA recommend pasting a photo of your animal on the carrier in case your cat escapes at some point. Step 5 Inform the flight crew that you have a cat on the airplane if your pet can't travel with you in the passenger area. It helps to have someone else thinking about checking on the animal in case of a delay or in an emergency. Sponsored Links Invest In UAE Hotel Rooms Listen to The Experts. Invest in Dubai's Booming Hotel Market. www.TheFirstGroupInvestor.com Travels & Tours Planning a Trip? Book Flights sure to meet your needs @1860Travels www.1860travels.net Place Your Ad for Free Put your ad up for free at TradeStable - Nigeria's Marketplace Tradestable.com.ng It's Forex Time You Haven't Traded Until You've Traded With FXTM. Start Now! www.forextime.com Tip As soon as you know you will be traveling with your cat, call agencies near your destination to ask about special permissions, permits or other need-to-knows. Paperwork, such as that for overseas, can take months to process. Warning Mild sedation can calm a cat, but do this only if you will be with your animal. The ASPCA advises against tranquilizers for cats traveling in an airplane. Your cat needs to react to what's around it, the Alley Cat Small Animal Hospital in Napa, California, says. The hospital says most animals that die in flight do so because of tranquilizers. References ASPCA: Car Travel Tips ASPCA: Air Travel Tips Alley Cat Small Animal Hospital: Traveling with Your Pet CatWellness News: Top 10 Tips for Safe Air Travel with Your Pet CARE Companion Animal Rescue Effort: Moving Your Pet (PDF) Resources

Taming Feral Kittens

Taming Feral Kittens Please click here for a printer-friendly PDF version. Feral cats are homeless cats, many of whom were born in the wild; others are pets who were abandoned or have become lost. They are for all intents and purposes wild animals. Those adult stray cats which were once owned, or feral cats of quiet temperament, may sometimes be tamed with patience. However, the feral kitten is often easily tamed if it is captured young enough. Considering the short, miserable lives that feral cats suffer, those kittens that can be tamed and adopted by humans are indeed lucky. Feral moms usually give birth in quiet, unseen spots where kittens will not be visible for several weeks. With no human contact, they will be totally wild. When kittens begin to romp and play, they are first noticed by humans but are not easily captured. They may be captured in humane traps (available from the Feral Cat Coalition) and should be taken from the mother at 4 to 6 weeks of age. Older kittens can also be captured and tamed but the process gets slower and less successful the longer the kittens stay in the wild. They should not be taken from the mother before they are old enough to be weaned at about 4 weeks. Kittens taken too young are vulnerable to disease and may not survive. The mother cat should also be captured and spayed to prevent future litters. The process of taming kittens can take from 2 to 6 weeks (longer for some exceptionally skittish kittens) depending on their age and state of wildness. Individuals can differ greatly in temperament even within the same litter. Some may tame up immediately and some may take quite a long time. Any person attempting to tame kittens should be totally committed and patient. The taming process is certainly worthwhile. You are saving lives and producing affectionate loving companions. The steps involved in the taming process are: Containment (I) in a cage or large pet carrier Periodic and brief handling with a protective towel Containment (II) in a small room Exposure to other humans Placement in suitable adoptive homes Containment I A feral kitten may hiss and "spit" at humans. They are usually terrified of humans. The kitten which acts the most ferocious is just the most scared, but it is capable of giving you a nasty scratch or bite and will probably try to escape if given the chance. Remember that to the kitten you may be a predator; the kitten may think it is fighting for its life. All bites are serious. If you are bitten, seek medical attention and quarantine the kitten. Feral kittens should be checked out by a veterinarian and tested for diseases contagious to other cats before you bring them home. Keep them isolated from your pet cats, wash your hands, and wear a smock (or change clothes between handling visits) to protect against the spread of disease from the kittens to pets or from pets to kitten. If a trap was used to capture the kitten, transfer the kitten to a cage or a pet carrier large enough for a small litter box and bedding. Place it in a small room away from family pets and children. Be careful not to allow the kitten to escape during the transfer process. For the first two days, do not attempt handling. The kittens must learn to feel safe. Visit them frequently and talk to them quietly, but resist touching. Always move slowly. Food and water and bedding should be placed in the cage or carrier. Many cages and carriers have food and water bowls attached to the doors so that you can feed and water the kittens without having to place your hand inside. If you do not have a cage, or your carrier is too small for a litter pan, place the kittens in a small room, like a bathroom, in the carrier. Place the litter box in the room and leave the carrier door open so that the kittens have access to the box. Some people use worn clothing as the kittens' bedding to get them used to the smell of humans. Handling After 2 days, select the least aggressive kitten, place a towel over it, and pick it up in the towel. If the kitten stays calm, pet it gently on the head from behind. Never approach from the front. A hand coming at the kittens frightens them which may cause them to hiss or bite. If the kitten remains calm, grip it securely by the nape of the neck, put the towel on your lap and set it on the towel. Stroke the kitten's body while speaking in soft, reassuring tones, then release. Make this first physical contact brief. Go through this process with each kitten. After all have been handled, give them a special treat. Baby food or Hills "a/d" brand canned food off a spoon is always a great ice-breaker. Repeat this process as frequently as possible. Brushing with a soft pet brush imitates the action of the mother grooming the kittens and will help the kitten start to transfer its need for parental love to you. It is also extremely important for the health of the kittens to remove fleas as soon as possible. Kittens become anemic from flea infestation and can easily fall prey to illnesses in this condition. Combing with a flea comb also helps the bonding process. Never stare at the kittens for prolonged periods. This is aggressive body language to cats. Avert your eyes frequently and lower your head often to display submissive behavior. This will be less threatening to the kittens. Play with the kittens using "kitty tease" toys (a tiny piece of cloth tied to a string which is tied to a small stick) or lightweight cat toys. Don't leave the "kitty tease" alone with the kittens as kittens will often swallow string. This can be fatal. Containment II Within a week the kittens should have made considerable progress. Each kitten will develop at a different rate. They should have access to the room and can be placed in the cage only if necessary. If there is one that is not becoming tame, place it in a separate cage in another room, away from the others. This will allow you to work with the baby more frequently and will increase it's dependence on a human. It will also prevent perpetuation of wildness in the littermates. All members of some litters must be isolated as not to reinforce wildness in the group. A large room may overwhelm a timid kitten and cause increased fear. Bedrooms can be a problem. If kittens become frightened and go under the bed it can be difficult to get them to come out and stressful for them if you force them out. Also try to kitten-proof the room as much as possible before letting the kittens out into the room. Seal up any nooks and crannies where frightened kittens may enter and become trapped or inaccessible to you. Bathroom sinks often have spaces between the kickboard and the cabinet just large enough for the kitten. Block access to behind bookcases and heavy furniture behind which the kitten can become wedged. Be careful of open toilets and anything which could be climbed and pulled down on top of the kitten causing possible injury. Protect vulnerable knick knacks, clothes, and plants (some poisonous) from curious kittens. Exposure When the kittens no longer respond by biting and scratching, encourage friends to handle them as often as possible. It is very important that they socialize with other humans. Feral cats tend to bond with one human so they best adjust to a new home if they are socialized with other humans before being adopted out. Placement Kittens can be adopted out at 8 weeks or so if tamed and socialized to humans. When screening prospective "parents" remember that the kitten will do best if there are no small children in the home. All the work you have done can be easily shattered by normal kid activity and noise. This is vital to remember when placing the kittens for adoption. The most suitable home is a calm environment so the kittens will feel secure. The ideal home is one which will keep their pet indoors and will take 2 kittens together (actually easier to care for and more fun to watch) or that will have an adult home during the day. Be sure that you inform the adoptive family that the kitten must be neutered. This can be done as early as 8 weeks of age. You may want to ask for a refundable deposit from the adoptive family to encourage them to neuter. Or you may want to neuter it yourself and ask the new owner to reimburse you. Many forms and contracts exist for doing this. For example, FOCAS, the Humane Society, and the Department of Animal Control all have such agreements. It is important to make sure this cat does not have babies, or you may find yourself trying to find a family for its kittens.

Animals as checked-baggage Animals as cargo

INFORMATION > Check-in > Pet Travel Pacific Coastal Airlines is proud to support the safe and humane travel of all animals we accept for transportation. Before travel, all customers are required to complete the applicable checklist; either, “Animals as checked baggage” or “Animals as Cargo” together with one of our service professionals. To familiarize yourself with the checklist the best applies to your animal’s type of travel, please click on the checklists below. Copies will be provided during check-in. Please click here for the Animals as Checked Baggage Checklist Please click here for the Animals as Cargo Checklist If you plan on travelling with your pet, please contact us at 1-800-663-2872 so that we may be better prepared for your check-in. Need a kennel for travel? Please review SkyKennel Supply for information on air-travel-standard kennels. Pacific Coastal does not lend or provide kennels. PDF Link: Airline Limitations and Live Animal Sizing Chart Carry-on Pets in Cabin Pacific Coastal Airlines accepts small pets for travel in the cabin for a fee of $30.00/kennel, each way (limit one kennel per customer). Pet kennels should be soft-sided (airline travel approved) and must be within the dimensions of 17" x 10" x 10" (43cm x 25.4cm x 25.4cm) to fit securely under the seat of our wheeled aircraft. The maximum allowable weight of the pet and kennel combined is 25lbs/11kgs. The pet-carrier supplier best suited to provide customers with a soft-sided carrier to fit these dimensions is Bosley's. They have locations across the Lower Mainland, parts of the interior, and Vancouver Island. The approved soft-sided carrier that we recommend is the Petmate brand (medium carrier). This carrier is available at Bosley's for approx. $44.99 (subject to change; please call Bosley's for up-to-date price). Petmate 21358_soft_sided_kennel Please contact us at 1.800.663.2872 for more information. Checked in Pets: We will accept pets as checked baggage up to a total weight of 60 lbs/27 kg (including pet and kennel) and to a maximum dimension of 36” X 25” X 27”. Fees are applied based on mileage, as follows: Zone 1 Zone 2 Zone 3 Zone 4 Zone 5 Zone 1 $50 $50 $50 $75 $75 Zone 2 $50 $50 $50 $75 $75 Zone 3 $50 $50 $50 $75 $75 Zone 4 $75 $75 $75 $75 $75 Zone 5 $75 $75 $75 $75 $75 Zone 1: Vancouver & Victoria Zone 2: Campbell River, Comox and Powell River Zone 3: Port Hardy, Williams Lake, Cranbrook and Trail Zone 4: Bella Bella, Hakai Pass, Rivers Inlet, Ocean Falls, Klemtu *more inlets upon inquiry Zone 5: Masset, Bella Coola & Anahim Lake Charges are calculated on a per kennel basis. Charges apply for empty kennels apply unless the kennel has been dismantled. In this case, regular checked baggage processes will apply. All checked pets must be in a hard-sided kennel (no wire cages) to protect them in case of luggage shifting during the flight. What if my pet is larger? All pets exceeding 60 lbs/27 kg and/or 36” X 25” X 27” will be handled as Cargo. Please contact our Cargo Department at 1-800-663-2872 ext. 2360 for details. Passengers are allowed up to 50 lbs/23kgs of free checked baggage in addition to their pet. Although we do place a priority on live animals travelling on your flight, the kennel charge does not guarantee the transportation of your pet. To guarantee your pet will travel on the same flight, please see our section on Guaranteed Baggage. You can use the following guidelines to estimate the number of seats needed to guarantee your pet. Kennels having dimensions up to, but not exceeding 40” X 27” X 30” will be guaranteed with the purchase of 1 baggage seat Kennels having dimensions exceeding 40” X 27” X 30” up to 48” X 32” X 35” will be guaranteed with the purchase of 2 baggage seats . Pets Shipped as Cargo Any pets shipped as cargo will be accepted and processed directly with our Freight agents. For more information please contact us toll-free at 1-800-663-2872 (ext. 2360). Pacific Coastal Airlines is not able to provide over-night facilities. Important Information We recommend that you register your pet within 24 hours of completing your booking (minimum of 48 hours prior to flight). Pet fees are applicable at the time of booking; however, should your plans change and your pet does not travel, the pet fee is refundable. Pacific Coastal Airlines will not be responsible for any additional fees in relation to the transportation of your pet. Your kennel must be leak proof and well ventilated. If you choose a soft-sided, airline approved kennel, your pet must be completely enclosed in the zipped up kennel. Pets must remain stowed under your seat and in their kennels for the duration of the flight. The carrier must be big enough to allow your pet to sit up and turn around safely and comfortably. No part of the pet may extend outside of the kennel. The pet must remain in the kennel and the kennel must remain under the seat and closed at all times. A customer may not travel with more than one kennel in the cabin. Aircraft types, weight, weather and regulatory restrictions may prevent Pacific Coastal Airlines from transporting your animal to the destination. Overnight kennel service fees may be required during transport in case of aircraft type, weight and severe weather or other conditions beyond Pacific Coastal Airlines’ control (including, but not limited to an act of god, or failure to retrieve animal after a reasonable time frame). If overnight kennel services are required, no compensation is provided by Pacific Coastal Airlines. The shipper and consignee are advised of the overnight charges, and these are added to the air waybill by the station where the overnight kenneling occurs. The shipment is then rebooked on the first available flight, and the shipper and consignee are notified accordingly. All overnight charges are collected from the consignee at destination. Service Animals Pacific Coastal Airlines allows service animals in the cabin of the aircraft, free of charge, when harnessed and on duty. Service Animals will be required to travel at the customer’s feet. Service animals are defined as animals required by a person with a disability for assistance. Service animals must be certified, in writing, as having been trained to assist a person with a disability by a professional service animal institution. Due to the smaller dimensions of our aircraft, we may not be able to comfortably accommodate large service animals on certain flights. Therefore, we recommend you pre-register your service animal with us a minimum of 48 hours prior to flight so we may best accommodate your needs.